So Aconcagua. So many adventures and stories to tell - my apologies in advance for how long this is going to be.....
Right - once we left Mendoza, we drove for 3 hours to Penitentes, stopping for lunch on the way. Penitentes is not a town as such. Simply a collection of hotel / resorts adjacent to a couple of ski hills in the middle of the Andes mountain range. As I mentioned before, the Andes rise abruptly from the flat plans of eastern South America. One minute we were driving on a long, flat road. The next, the road started to twist and climb through the incredible, steep and stark mountains.
Most expeditions spend 2 days in Penitentes to assist with acclimatisation so the resort was full of climbers. Some, like us, on their way up to Aconcagua; others on their way home. Those coming home were easily recognisable, either by the smell (the word ´nasty´comes to mind) or by the classic mountaineer´s raccoon look (suntan/sunburnt face with white surrounding their eyes which were protected by sunglasses).
The morning after arriving at Penitentes we set out for an acclimatisation walk, gaining about 1000m in altitude up a ski hill opposite the resort.
This hike made it feel like our journey had finally commenced. There for the first time we got a glimpse at Aconcagua. While I wasn´t quite as daunted as I thought I might be, it was a bloody great place of rock.
We also did a short acclimatisation walk to a local cemetery in which lots of people who have died climbing Aconcagua are also buried. I've been to the 'climber's cemetery' near Everest but this was, not surprisingly, far more immediate and touching.
The following day we got a lift to the trailhead and started our 3 day hike up the Vacas valley to base camp, slowly gaining altitude each day.
The wind and dust which swept down the valley into our faces were our major problems during the trek. We were lucky if the winds held off until midday. But on day two, about 10.30am the wind started to arrive and we knew it was going to be a long day. Still there were many amusing, entertaining and special events during our 3 day hike. Trying to put up tents in the wind. Trying to keep our hats on our head. Our first ´wag bag´experiences. Our guide, David, wrongfully identifying Aconcagua - I don´t think the poor guy will ever live that one down. Crossing a river on the back of a mule. Crossing an icy glacial stream in barefeet. Watching the arrieros - Argentinean cowboys - herding the mules which transported our gear to base camp and having the Arrieros cook us dinner one night: steak, chicken and eggplant on a wood fire as the sun set and the colours of the sky and mountains around us slowly changed.
No well defined trails here-
On the third day of our hike, we left the Vacas Valley, turned east and started walking up a valley directly towards Aconcagua and base camp.
This route is less popular than the ´normal´route (which heads up the western side of the mountain) and is far more beautiful. All day we walked towards the mountain and it never seemed to get any closer. In fact, it just got bigger and bigger and bigger. Not only did we have to contend with an altitude gain of almost 1000m throughout the day but strong wind; some gusts were so strong that we were often pushed 2 or 3 paces off the side of the trail. And then there was poor Adam. Adam became weaker and weaker throughout the course of the day. A visit to the doctor at base camp revealed he had a high fever and incredibly low oxygen saturation level (basically the amount of oxygen being transported by his blood - bloody important generally but particularly at altitude) and was flown out by helicopter the next morning. His departure was a great loss to our team and an (important) reminder of the importance - and difficulty - of remaining healthy under these conditions.
After spending 2 nights cooking / eating / hanging out at camp behind boulders and rock walls to protect ourselves from the wind and dust, base camp (Plaza Argentina) was like an oasis. Our permanent dining tent, complete with tables, chairs and cutlery, was a refuge from the wind and dust that barrelled up the valley towards camp. And the food - sensational! Plaza Argentina was at 4,200m and we spent 4 nights there to assist with acclimatisation. Our first full day there was a rest day; after a late breakfast, we spent the day kicking back in our dining tent and basically ate, read, drank and chatted all day - well except for those who chose to incorporate the Argentinean practice of the afternoon siesta. As they say, when in Rome.... ;-)
Stay tuned for the next instalment. I gotta go and do a bit more moving & unpacking!
1 comment:
I thought this existed but did not know where to look. Glad you are back. No luck with STR.
cheers PLu
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