The siege

So, where were we....

Some people talk about 'conquering' mountains. They are kidding themselves. Climbing a mountain is actually like a siege. You sneak up on your target (I won't say opponent or enemy because they aren't the right words) when it isn't looking and then duck back to safety before your target has an opportunity to hurt you. Then you sneak up up on it again hoping to gain ground. Basically you carry a load of gear from one camp to the next one (which is higher than the first) and then return to your first camp to rest and recover before moving up and settling into the higher camp. Not only does it (obviously) move your equipment up the mountain, it assists with acclimatisation as your body can slowly adjust to the decreasing amount of oxygen in the air before you actually move up and stay at that level. Another way to assist with acclimatisation is to drink - lots. 5 litres of liquids each day. And I can't begin to tell you how many times a day you need to pee when consuming that much liquids!

Right, after our rest day at Plaza Argentina (base camp), the next day we carried a load of gear - consisting of personal gear, food and fuel - to camp 1. The trip took about 5.5 hours as we climbed from base camp at 4,200m to 5,100m. The climb was long and tough as the effects of the altitude started to bite. The last two hours were probably the toughest of the whole trip. We climbed up past the penitentes - amazing ice structures formed apparently by the wind and unique to the Andes - on a steep slope covered in deep, loose scree. Patience was tested; if you were lucky, your foot stayed in place and you could move up the mountain another pace. But more likely than not, it was a case of 1 step forward, 1/2 step back. Or if you were really unlucky, when you transferred your weight to your front foot, it slide all the way back to where your foot started from. Eventually after 2 hours of hard work and much swearing, we made it to camp 1 which sat at the base of another steep climb.

Base camp-


About to set out for our first carry to camp 1-


Looking back down to base camp during the climb to camp 1-


The penitentes-


Made it to camp 1-


After a rest and more junk food, we headed back down to base camp; the return trip only taking 2 hours. A much deserved rest day followed. On the morning of day 3, we packed up the tents and moved up to camp 1.

Our first night at camp 1 was memorable. Despite ear plugs I was woken about midnight by a hail storm complete with thunder and lightening. We woke after sunrise to find 10cm of snow had fallen overnight. A carry to camp 2 had been on the plan but the weather, which was still threatening, and ill-health put an end to that and it became an unscheduled rest day. My tent mate Nancy had decided to leave due to ill-health. Our guide David had also been ill so Nancy and David decided to return to base camp where they could recover much faster due to the lower altitude and more oxygen. Those remaining - our assistant guide Matias, John, Paul and I - spent the rest of the day hanging out, eating & drinking 5 litres of liquids (!). The tent Nancy and I had been occupying was now required for Nancy and David at base camp so I also had to pack up and move into the guides tent. That night we stood outside in the driving snow and wind while Matias cooked dinner.

Camp 1 on arrival-


Camp the next morning-




Dinner in the snow-




More penitentes at camp 1-


The following day we made our carry to camp 2. This trip took 5 hours and involved a(nother) steep climb up to a pass followed by traversing across two gullies, the second of which was covered in snow and ice. I really struggled this day. I probably didn't look after myself enough - ie I didn't eat or drink enough - and so I was completely and utterly stuffed by the time we got to camp. But some peanut M&Ms and taking in the incredible views perked me up.



Then it was back to down to camp 1. On our return to camp, we discovered David had returned and had our hot drinks ready for us. No rest though - the next morning we packed up camp and moved up to camp 2, one of the most spectacular places I have ever had the privilege of camping. The views over the snow-capped Andes and up to the summit of Aconcagua were breathtaking.

More later. I've got more unpacking to do!